Aglaia Kremezi, her husband Costas Moraitis , their friends Kostis and Marcie live on the island of Kea an hour's ferry ride off the coast of mainland Greece near Athens. Together they run a cooking school Keartisanal on the island with side trips for nature and historical walking trails , snorkelling and visiting local restaurants and friends. I can't believe it has been almost two years since I visited.. because it seems like yesterday it is so vivid in my mind. I remember the day I arrived and walked up the long steep hill to the Hora ...a town with no cars allowed. At the top of the long climb was a small taverna where I stopped for a late lunch. I watched the school children walk by with their happy faces, teasing each other and calling out to their neighbours sitting in the restaurant having a visit. This day I had a vegetable dish called Briam made of zucchini, tomato and potatoes. As I sat there watching the world go by I felt like I could be there forever...like I wanted to be there forever. The next eight days on the island were filled with forging new friendships, creating innovative dishes from fresh ingredients and herbs from Aglaia's garden, hiking to ancient ruins...and so much more. I have mentioned this part of my trip on so many occasions I won't bore you with it all again.....Aglaia says, "Few people can resist these potatoes, which are capable of stealing the show from any food they accompany - so make sure you have plenty for seconds. Although it is served all over Greece this dish is particularly good on islands like Naxos, where the local potatoes have an exceptional taste. On the special days when a leg of lamb or a chicken is roasted, the potatoes are cooked in its juices. If you want to cook this dish using small potatoes, there is no need to peel them, but I suggest that you halve them, because they taste better when they can absorb more sauce." These potatoes are fantastic!!!!!!!!! Exactly what I remember from any Greek restaurant or home I have ever been in !!!!!!!!!
This time around I added a tablespoon of tomato paste to the stock before cooking as a variation of the dish and served them with the dolmades yesterday. These potatoes will whisk you off to warmer climates. Close your eyes and you can hear the calming rush of the sea and if you listen really hard...you can hear bazooka music playing in the background...and maybe the bleat of a far off goat. Is that Kostis coming around the bay in his traditional caique "Soultana"?? Better get ready for another adventure......
**PATATES RIGANATES**
This recipe is excerpted from Aglaia Kremezi's book The Foods of the Greek Islands.
3 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1- 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1- 1/2 tsp dried oregano, crumbled
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup beef stock or chicken stock
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2-3 T chopped fresh oregano
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Preheat oven to 400°F.
Place the potatoes in a single layer in a 13-x-9-inch baking dish and pour the oil over them. Add the garlic, dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste and toss well to coat with the oil.
Bake the potatoes for 15 minutes. Add the stock, toss and bake for 10 minutes more. Add the lemon juice, toss and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more, or until the potatoes are cooked through. If you like, preheat the broiler and broil the potatoes for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown.
Sprinkle with the fresh oregano and serve at once.
Variation
Dissolve 1 tablespoon tomato paste in the stock, and reduce the amount of lemon juice to taste. Substitute Aleppo pepper or crushed red pepper flakes for the black pepper.
Serves 6 - 8
